![]() You can then mark 36 degrees on the damper and set the timing so that mark is at 0 degrees on the timing tab with the engine reved up so that it is at maximum advance. Since the total circumference is 360 degrees, one tenth of that is 36 degrees. Can you give more information? One way to get a 36 degree mark is to measure the circumference of the harmonic damper. The original number of 4 degrees is very low you many want to start with 12 degrees and listen for pinging but that is not an ideal way to do this. Did you just get this car? Do you know the history pertaining to the distributor? Typically you would set the timing not at idle but at a higher RPM for the total advance number which should be 36 degrees but you dont have the right timing light to do this and/or you dont have the 36 degree mark on your damper. So you could set the timing at idle but not knowing what has been done to this distributor makes it difficult to say what you should set it for. Accel distributors quite often have modifed advance curves, lighter springs so total timing comes in sooner. So the way it is now is about 6 degrees BTDC right?įirst you have to set the dwell, 30 degrees asumming it's a single point distributor. When I'm on the drivers side looking down and in the engien bay the line on the dampener is passed the 0 on the advance side like 3-4 hash marks which I believe are 2 degrees each. So I just need a baseline idle timing adjustment for now.Īs of now when i look at the timing with the light at idle it is like 6-8 degrees on the advance side of the timing tab.īut you're saying go 12 degrees on the advance side? I'm just wanting to get a base line because as of now when I shut my engine off it has some engine run on going on it takes a couple secs to cut off. ![]() Ok well I have owned the car for 7 years and the previous owner had it since 83 the distributor I can tell you nobody has messed with he just put it in I'm sure. The digital lights may be as accurate, but they are a lot more money than a degree tape.įirst you have to set the dwell, 30 degrees asumming it's a single point distributor. Your 'old' light with the proper degree tape stuck onto your damper will be more accurate than a dial-back light. For 'driver' vehicles not needing to be set-up for performance, setting timing per the "GM method" shown on the emissions sticker is adequate. Since it doesn't have a 'dial-back' feature, you will have to install a degree-tape on your damper.if you want to 'read' the timing at somewhere other than the indicator plate. ![]() The newer Xenon bulbs are much brighter and easier to see they aren't any more accurate, though. If your light is one of the old neon bulb type units, you may have to be in a darkened garage to be able to see the flashes. Red to 12 vdc (+), black to ground (I use alternator ground bolt) and the blue for spark signal. The blue wire should be connected to that coil-conductor. Then the coil/spring gizmo is what your #1 plug wire connects to. The 'pigtail' you mentioned is for connecting to your #1 spark plug. The "old" timing light is fine.as long as it works.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |